Ah. Underthings.
My Regency wardrobe requires three:
- a chemise
- short stays
- a bodiced petticoat
The chemise will be first, as it should, I hope, be the quickest and simplest. It will be two pieces (front and back) and, unlike many patterns and projects I've seen, will have straps but not sleeves. If all goes well, I'll be able to put it on without the need for closures. There will be a drawstring in the front neckline in order to work properly with the short stays.
Short stays were more bra than corset, as Regency fashions had a waistline that didn't actually involve the waist. While some ladies did still use longer stays or corsets to keep their tummies in check, most women were focused on keeping their breasts up above the stylish high waist. This gives me some leeway in my design. The top of mine will sit about two inches above the underbust/waistline and the bottom will fall at my natural waist. There will be straps attached to the back that will go over the shoulders and tie to the front, to allow for adjustments. It will lace in the front and not have a modesty panel. There will be eight total zip-tie "bones" - two in the back (near the center back), one at each side seam, and four in the front (one on each side of both grommets/eyelets). The four in the front will act as the busk. I may also put in some cording, but that isn't something I'm decided about. I'm not sure what I will do about the lacing, as I've never sewn eyelets, and grommets are a bit of a mystery to me.
The bodiced petticoat is an idea borrowed from Diary of a Mantua Maker, and who also inspired me to make my underthings in off-white muslin and cotton, instead of white (for a less stark contrast between skin and underthings). Mine will be based of one of my dress patterns, but with some changes. No sleeves, for one. The waist will have a drawstring that goes all the way around and tie in the back. The neckline will have a drawstring in the front only. The back will have one button at the top of the neckline (in addition to the drawstring closure at the waist). It will end just above the ankles and have three pintucks near the hem for a bit of structure.
Research and Inspiration: