"Whatever Shall I Wear? A Guide to Assembling a Woman's Basic 18th Century Wardrobe" is exactly what the subtitle says it is - a solid foundation for assembling a working-class woman's 18th-century wardrobe. It was written by Mara Riley, illustrated by Cathy Johnson, and published in 2002. It's aimed specifically at reenactors, but I think it's appropriate for any historical costumer interested in this topic.
"Whatever Shall I Wear?" is a short book (not quite 50 pages), but it contains a LOT of information. It dedicates at least a page each to shifts, petticoats, pockets, stays, bed gowns, jackets, gowns, aprons, handkerchiefs, caps, hats, shoes, stockings, cloaks, hairstyles, and jewelry. And that's just the beginning.
There's a whole section on fabrics (fibers, colors, patterns, and piecing), plus a page on basic hand stitching. The book acknowledges that sewing machines make assembling garments faster, but encourages (not commands) using hand stitches for anything visible, which is a common method among many costumers today!
Being aimed specifically at reenactors, there are discussions about weathering your wardrobe and making it fit your persona, including tips for how to adapt to various cultural backgrounds (namely French, German, Scottish, and Irish, though it also discusses what enslaved Africans wore). It should also be noted here that some sections near the end use what is now considered a slur against the Romani people.
The book ends with an annotated reading list, divided by topic, and including some well-known books and authors, such as Janet Arnold, Nancy Bradfield, Norah Waugh, "Fashion in Detail" from the V&A, and more. There's also a short list of relevant merchants, some of which I know are still around today, like J.P. Ryan, Kannik's Korner, and Burnley & Trowbridge.
And the illustrations!!! Cathy Johnson, the illustrator, created wonderfully intricate ink drawings to illustrate the clothing described. She drew on (haha) paintings and engravings from the era as well as extant garments to showcase styles from throughout the 1700s.
Overall, "Whatever Shall I Wear?" is a great starting point for anyone who wants to understand what working-class women wore in the 18th century! The book can be bought from many online retailers that cater to 18th century reenactors, or directly from Cathy Johnson's website.
Stay warm. Stay safe. Stay healthy.
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